The Nicoya Peninsula, Costa Rica, Sept. 2002

...Continued from earlier post- 

Playa Hermosa

Journal Entry

Sunday, October 27, 2002

...The next stupid mistake we made was not cashing in our travelers checks before the 3 day holiday weekend that we knew nothing about.  So we had no cash and plenty of travelers checks that nobody would take.  We were driving on fumes and it was getting dark when we came to a ferry crossing.  After pulling any change we could find out of the ash tray, center console, and under the seats, we still didn't have enough change for the ferry.  It was about $4.00, they wouldn't take our travelers checks there either.  So for the first (and hopefully the only) time in my life I went bumming for change. It was the lowest point yet, I felt like we hit rock bottom. I was on the verge of tears. Things couldn't get any worse. Our luck had to turn around.  Yet there was nothing we could do, but laugh.  We spent a long time just laughing at ourselves and how things had turned out.  We eventually rounded up enough money to get on the ferry and we drove on fumes and, surprisingly, made it all the way to the next town.  That night we checked into a hotel in a little town called Nicoya.  Our blankets we had taken from our Delta flight became our change of clothes.  Those Delta blankets came in handy a lot during that trip.  I guess it was because they were one of the only things we had left. 

The next day was pretty cool, we found a bank that finally cashed Greg's travelers checks then we drove down the Nicoya Peninsula to Mal Pais.  It was a crazy jungle road most of the way.  Winding up and down super steep hills with pot holes everywhere that were big enough to swallow our car whole.  It was thick, lush  jungle all around us, we couldn't even see the sky above, it was just a canopy of green vines and leaves.  It was beautiful... 

Just before sunset, we finally set up camp in a tiny little beach town, Santa Theresa.  Once again it felt great to be there, the ocean was a beautiful blue, the sand was soft and white, the tropical air smelled so good...  But we had a really hard time relaxing. We didn't realize it at first, but we were camped right in front of the best surf break in miles and miles. Which meant it was a very popular spot.  We were constantly watching everyone around us always looking over our shoulders.  One word to describe us would have been "paranoid."  We didn't have much left for anyone to take, but we couldn't take any chances with what we did have.  All I wanted to do was lay on the beach, swim, surf, and  drink cervesa, you know, what you would normally do on a Costa Rica vacation.   The next day I did a little of that, but I was totally stressed out.  I had to figure out how I was going to get a new passport, how to get us new plane tickets, get all of my credit cards cancelled and my travelers checks reimbursed.  So much to do, only a 10 minute calling card...  I got to work right away, but it was a joke, we didn't have much money and I was spending way too much time on hold.  We had to go back to the capitol city, San Jose, we just HAD to...  

So we made the best of our few days in Santa Theresa.  We had a couple of stray beach dogs that stayed with us.  Greg gave them names "Flea" and "Tick."  They were so cute, it made me sad that we couldn't pet or even touch them because, hence the name, they just happened to be covered in fleas and ticks, but they were great to have around because they would growl and bark anytime anyone came near our camp....  They were our loyal companions and our protectors.  I miss those little guys, I hope they are doing okay.  We stayed there there for 3 nights.  The second night we had the craziest storm blow through.  I was SCARED TO DEATH.  I was literally shaking.  It was raining so hard it seemed like we were camping under a waterfall.  The thunder would go on and on for 30 to 40 seconds, and then there was the lightning, that was the worst of it.  It felt like it was striking right on top of us. Every time the lightning struck I would jump about a foot. I felt like we were being held hostage in my little tiny tent, it was so muggy and I was feeling so claustrophobic.  All of the insects in the area were finding refuge from the storm under our tent too.  Ughh!  I went to get out to go to the bathroom and there was a HUGE Costa Rica style SPIDER chillin' right out side the door on the dry ground.  I decided I could wait till morning.  It was a rough night.  It took everything I had to keep from crying.  Believe it or not, this was the first time "I just want to go home" crossed my mind.  

The next day I was on the phone with Annalisa and my Mom a lot.  They helped me out so much, we were able to get my credit cards cancelled at least... but it was just too hard trying to do all of this from a little pay phone on the side of a dirt road in the jungle. We left for San Jose the next morning.  We spent a few good hours waiting for the ferry at the crossing.  "Never assume anything in Costa Rica" is what a lady at the tourist center told us back in Jaco.  Just because there is a ferry schedule, doesn't mean there is a ferry schedule.  So we met a few other travelers while waiting for the ferry to show up.  It was the first time we mingled with others without feeling threatened.  It was fun, we relaxed a bit there in the sun, on the shore, it was a very peaceful place... 

To be continued...

Next time I will tell you about The Pine Tree Inn in Escazu.  And how our luck finally turns around after meeting a Vietnam Veteran who's crazy eyes lived up to all of his crazy stories...